In fact, Mr. Brock likes adding a few green ones for tartness and texture.

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Such tartness is a reason the deceptively boyish-looking Goodwin is not universally liked.

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There was also a hint of chili and citrus juice, which gave the ingredients a tartness that always makes such dishes refreshing.

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The tartness of the blood orange, the sweetness of the strawberries, and the fresh taste of the cucumber all come together to compliment the Hendricks gin.

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The fruit adds tartness and a quick flush of energy.

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The confit is melt-in-your-mouth, the gravy is full-bodied and indulgent and the onions are beautifully sweet with a touch of balsamic tartness that cuts through the richness of the sauce.

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The predictable is leavened with notes of idiosyncrasy: a pea-shoot-and-watermelon-radish salad provides just the right edge of tartness to the greasier offerings, as does a beautifully balanced pickle garnish—sweet with a little chile—that accompanies several dishes.

NEWYORKER: Littleneck