The confit is melt-in-your-mouth, the gravy is full-bodied and indulgent and the onions are beautifully sweet with a touch of balsamic tartness that cuts through the richness of the sauce.
The predictable is leavened with notes of idiosyncrasy: a pea-shoot-and-watermelon-radish salad provides just the right edge of tartness to the greasier offerings, as does a beautifully balanced pickle garnish sweet with a little chile that accompanies several dishes.