Their influence can still be tasted at many of the thousands of restaurants serving dishes like Sichuan duck smoked with camphor wood and tea leaves, and a popular dish called Over the Bridge Noodles.
Here, too, there was a backlash in the last quarter of the century, with the birth of nouvelle cuisine, the rise of celebrity chefs and the proliferation of ethnic restaurants serving dishes from all over the world.
Despite increasing popularity with visitors, this is still strictly a neighbourhood place, serving uncomplicated dishes at everyday prices, including the unspeakably savoury antipasto of sardines in pesto oil.
He has been serving home-cooked dishes to locals and visitors ever since, like his signature chilli chocolate steak, a chunk of tender beef covered in a spicy, cocoa-flavoured sauce.
On the tour, we avoided the many cevapcici (minced meat kebab) shops, instead stopping at an intimate restaurant serving up freshly cooked dishes from a tiny open kitchen with space for only one cook.
Or, you can find a food truck serving well-made Mexican dishes.
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For dinner, put on your best dress or dinner jacket and head over to the El San Juan Resort and Casino located in Isla Verde to dine at Koco, a modern Caribbean restaurant serving jazzed-up island dishes.
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Along with a private beach, there are four onsite restaurants serving Croatian, Mediterranean and international dishes, plus a spa, gym, indoor pool and sauna.
The latter also operates one of the best restaurants in town, serving pisco sours and fine Peruvian dishes such as alpaca with elderberry sauce in a rustically elegant dining room.
In a kitchen that is definitely on the small side, he's serving up value-for-money dishes which he reckons are a recipe for success in tough economic times.
It morphs into an Italian-inspired cafe by night, serving crowd-pleasing plates of spaghetti alla vongole (with clams), pints of prawns and heartier dishes like roast rump of lamb.
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