Close to the western end of Margaret Bridge, find the steep, cobbled Gul Baba Street which winds upward from Leo Frankel Street, then take a sharp left at the top, and look for the new moon symbol on a small, domed roof.

BBC: A Danube-led tour of Budapest

The moon was above us, a convex shape almost crushing us, a ruined roof, studded with holes like a cheese grater.

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