She put a hand on her hip, grinning derisively, while I seethed with rage.

Glimpses of soft feminine features evolve into men with handlebar mustaches and freckle-faced teenagers grinning through braces.

The sights and smells in the market were arresting: giant slabs of shea butter, grinning cats picking at fishmongers' leftovers, piles of brightly-colored fabric, and rows of hastily stitched football tops.