Crispy beet "tumbleweeds, " wobbly spheres of carrot puree adrift in a sea of coconut and ginger, clams encased in translucent purses of clam juice that burst with each bite.

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As you toss the pasta and sauce, the goal is to build an emulsion between the clam juice, oil and as many spoonfuls of pasta water as it takes to create a uniform texture.

WSJ: Marc Vetri's Spaghetti in Parchment With Clams | Slow Food Fast

And in my chorizo-and-shrimp rice, a dish inspired by my travels in Spain, kelp stock magnifies the umami impact of the sausage and shellfish and the briny character of the clam juice that the rice simmers in.

WSJ: Kelp Wanted